Resilient
Food Gardening
-
Mike Bernhard
Succession Planting of Salad Vegetables: “Don’t put
all your eggs in one basket”.
In the old days, when the weather was more stable,
it was possible to plant a vegetable garden in one day at the end of May. Occasionally a hot, dry spring would yield 20
feet of lettuce fit only for compost, or a cool, wet summer would produce a
dozen giant pepper plants, with no peppers.
Yet every year, many, if not all crops would do well. But these days, even green beans are at the
mercy of wild weather and its attendant patterns of insects and disease.
There are many strategies that can reduce losses to
wild weather:
- season-extending techniques that
create protected sites for heat- or shade-loving plants
- improvement of the water-storage capacity of
soils by increasing their organic matter levels
- row covers, low
tunnels and hoop houses that affect temperatures and moisture levels
My main strategy for coping with extreme weather is
“succession planting”. Rather than planting my hardy vegetable seeds – salad
and cooking greens, roots and scallions – all on one day, I now make much
smaller plantings every three weeks between mid-March and the last of August.
Because I started my gardens (thirty years ago) on
compacted, infertile, gravelly soil, I shoveled the soil out of 18” wide paths
and onto 30” wide growing beds. But I still seeded in rows running the length
of those beds. Depending on the weather
(mostly) I might end up with 25 feet of beautiful spinach plants all ready the
same day or, worse, 25 feet of flowering spinach-gone-to-seed.
Gradually it dawned on me that the best outcome
would be for my garden to yield a basket of “salad vegetables” every week from
May to October: several lettuces, a few carrots, a handful of green beans, a
couple of fennel bulbs, two bunches of radishes, three or four beets, some
spinach. So, to avoid having too much or
too little of what I wanted to eat during the growing season, I began to plant
rows of seeds across my 30” beds, and I began to plant those short rows
more often.
Early in the season (last half of March), my first
“succession bed” is seeded to veggies most likely to sprout and thrive in cool
weather: spinach, radishes, beets, carrots, several kinds of lettuce,
scallions. This bed, 30” wide and 6’
long, has six or eight rows : a couple of rows of different larger,
spreading lettuces, alternate rows with
faster-to-mature spinaches and more-upright carrots and beets. Radishes might be sown on both sides of a
band of scallion or pearl onion seeds.
Three weeks later I seed the same crops – remember
these are very short rows – plus a second bed of fennel, arugula, endives and
radicchio.
By the time the third set of two succession beds are
planted, it’s already unlikely that spinaches will mature before the weather
turns too hot, so spinach drops out of the plan, to return again in the
mid-August succession beds. Lettuce and
radishes drop out in July, skipping one or two succession plantings. They return in August, too.
Over the years, experience has shown which planting
dates work for which crops. Not every seeding of every crop will yield; the
point is to always push the boundaries at both the cold ends of the season, and
in the hot middle. It is the small
amount of work that is committed to each succession bed that allows for a range
of planting dates for each vegetable or variety. It is that range that provides for resilience;
you know some plantings of carrots will work well; some not so well. But you aren’t overwhelmed by your successes
or devastated by failure because you haven’t put all your eggs in one basket.
If you practice succession planting of salad
vegetables the way I do, you will also notice that each vegetable type will
also differ in their relation to plant pests and diseases. Slugs and lettuce bottom rot have their
season, as do carrot rust and spinach aphids.
Next season, plant your salad vegetables in
succession beds and see if you can’t replace the feast-or-famine pattern of
gardens-gone-by with a steady supply of salad makings from May to October.
(This article from pages 9 - 10, Winter 2013 issue, The Afton Vision)
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